Vintage watches are more than just timekeepers, they’re mini marvels of engineering, history and design. Whether tucked away in a drawer or proudly worn on special occasions, your vintage watch could be worth far more than you imagine. If you’re considering selling your vintage watch at auction, understanding what drives its value is essential. At Potteries Auctions, we carefully assess a range of factors during the valuation process to determine the potential market value of each item.
Key features of valuing a vintage watch for auction
Here are some of the key features our valuers look for when determining the value of a vintage watch for auction:
Brand and model recognition
Some names speak for themselves, such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega and Audemars Piguet. A strong brand can significantly increase a watch’s appeal and value. But it’s not just the name; specific models such as the Rolex Submariner, Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch or Patek Philippe Nautilus often command premium prices due to their legacy and collector demand.
If your watch has its original box and papers, bring them along. They can add considerable value, particularly for high-end models!
Rarity and production numbers
Collectors love a challenge. Limited production runs, discontinued models or references with unusual features, such as dial variations, rare case sizes, or transitional movements, can be extremely desirable. Even mass-market brands may have specific versions that fetch surprising prices due to rarity.
Condition and originality
Condition is king. A watch in pristine or well-preserved condition is always more appealing, but originality can be just as important. We look at whether the dial, hands, bezel, crown and movement are original or have been replaced. A lightly worn watch with all-original parts is often more valuable than a restored piece with aftermarket replacements.
We check for features such as signs of over-polishing (which can reduce sharp case lines), movement health and service history, and an original finish on the dial and lume (aged patina can be a plus!).
Background and history
A strong provenance, such as ownership by a notable figure or documented historical relevance, can set a watch apart. Even a compelling personal story or photographs of the watch being worn decades ago can add depth and value to your piece.
Market trends and collector demand
Valuation is never in a vacuum. We consider current market appetite, our upcoming auctions and trends among collectors. For example, mid-century tool watches, vintage chronographs and integrated bracelet models are currently experiencing strong demand.
Functionality and completeness
A running watch is naturally more attractive, though we do sell non-working watches if the piece itself is rare or valuable. If your watch comes with the original strap or bracelet, warranty papers, service records or a purchase receipt, it can greatly improve the auction estimate.
Check out the range of watches we’ve recently had pass through our salerooms to get a taste of what you could make by selling your vintage watch at auction.
Back in January, we sold this 9ct gold Rotary wristwatch with a 9ct gold bracelet, boxed with guarantee, for £190.
This 9ct gold ladies Omega wristwatch with a 9ct gold bracelet in its original box sold for £630.
Lot 726 from our February 2025 auction was a 1940s Omega stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch, model 30T2PC with a seconds dial, roman numerals and a new black leather strap. It sold for £220.
Timepieces such as vintage pocket watches can also fetch a good price at auction. This piece sold for £1,500 and is a great example of a vintage watch with a story. This top-winding 18ct gold pocket watch features an inscription inside:
“Presented to Karl L Spencer / Sec. Coventry Liberal Assn / By Liberal Friends / A Token of esteem & appreciation / of his services in organizing the / Liberal Victory / of / 6th Decr 1910”
This gentleman’s Omega Seamaster De Ville automatic wristwatch with a new leather strap sold for £300 as part of our March 2025 auction.
Another timepiece with a story and also from our March 2025 auction, this boxed Rolex Oyster Date precision gents wristwatch features a very faint inscription that says “J Goodwin, Hong Kong, 1955” that sold for £1,400.
Last year, we sold this Audemars Piguet 18ct gold gents wristwatch for a tremendous £2,400!
The star of our November 2024 auction, this rare Omega 18ct Gold electroquartz F8192 Hz bracelet watch with its box and a spare bracelet link sold for a show-stopping £5,850.
While not falling into the vintage watch category quite yet, we also wanted to showcase some recent Rolex lots that found incredible success in our auctions recently. This Rolex Oyster Perpetual date Submariner gents stainless steel wristwatch sold for £4,900 earlier this year.
From the same auction, this 2002 Rolex Submariner ‘Blue’ steel/gold automatic chronometer watch with its original inner and outer box, spare links, tags, paperwork and Guarantee card, sold for an astounding £7,500.
How to sell your vintage watch at auction
Bringing your vintage watch to auction isn’t just about realising its financial value, it’s also about sharing a story with a new collector who will appreciate its heritage.
If you’re looking to sell vintage watches and timepieces, then please get in touch with us. Free valuation days are held every Tuesday at our Silverdale saleroom or every Thursday at our Cobridge saleroom. To book an appointment, use our online booking form here. You can also email us at enquiries@potteriesauctions.com or call us at +44 (0)1782 638100.
Due to popular demand, we have also started to offer a private valuation service for premium items. Please contact us directly to arrange an appointment by emailing amy@potteriesauctions.com.